Sarah Jewett as "The Opera," from the series Fancy Dress Ball Costumes (N73) for Duke brand cigarettes 1889

This small lithograph was made by W. Duke, Sons & Co. as part of a series of cigarette cards. These cards, printed on thin card stock, were originally included in packs of Duke brand cigarettes. The printing process involves transferring an image from a stone or metal plate to paper. The result here is a kind of soft, diffused image, perfect for the subject matter. Cigarette cards like these were not considered high art, but were popular collectibles, reflecting the rise of mass production and consumer culture. The very disposability of the card makes it interesting. This was popular ephemera, connecting a product to notions of beauty, luxury, and even celebrity. Cards like these speak volumes about the hierarchies of taste and value that defined the period, and which continue to resonate today.