Agnes Stone as "The Morning Glory," from the series Fancy Dress Ball Costumes (N73) for Duke brand cigarettes 1889

Editor: This is "Agnes Stone as 'The Morning Glory'," a print from 1889, created by W. Duke, Sons & Co. It's one of the Fancy Dress Ball Costumes cards for Duke brand cigarettes. I’m struck by how this card reflects late 19th century ideals of feminine beauty and gentility... what catches your eye? Curator: It’s a seemingly innocent portrait, but it reveals quite a bit about the social landscape of the time, particularly regarding gender and commodification. These cards were essentially advertisements, using images of women, often actresses, to sell cigarettes. What does it tell us that a woman’s image is used to market something that might have been considered ‘unfeminine’ at the time? Editor: That’s fascinating. It seems like the image plays into respectability through the "fancy dress" theme while simultaneously promoting an addictive product. So, are we seeing a tension here between the constructed image of womanhood and the realities of consumer culture? Curator: Exactly. The very act of Agnes Stone adopting the guise of ‘The Morning Glory’ blurs the line between artifice and reality. Think about it – is she selling the flower, herself, or the cigarette? How does this appropriation speak to the objectification and idealization of women, particularly within the context of advertising and popular culture? It almost feels like a precursor to today's celebrity endorsements, only far more blatant. Editor: It really reframes the image! I was initially focused on its aesthetic qualities, but now I'm seeing it as a cultural artifact loaded with messages about gender, marketing, and societal values. Thank you. Curator: It’s a perfect example of how art, even in its most commercial forms, can serve as a powerful mirror reflecting the complexities and contradictions of society. Thinking critically helps us unravel those complex messages.