Florence St. John as "The Pansy," from the series Fancy Dress Ball Costumes (N73) for Duke brand cigarettes 1889

Curator: Before us, we have a rather charming piece titled "Florence St. John as 'The Pansy,'" part of the series "Fancy Dress Ball Costumes" produced in 1889 for Duke brand cigarettes. Editor: Immediately, I notice the composition relies heavily on soft colors and gentle curves, creating an almost dreamlike image. The use of coloured pencil gives the piece a unique texture, too. Curator: Indeed. Tobacco cards were a popular form of advertisement. But, look closer. The choice of Florence St. John dressed as a pansy carries symbolic weight. The pansy, derived from the French word "pensée," meaning "thought," was often associated with remembrance and affection, but could also be a sly nod to more unconventional affections. Editor: That tension between the overt, floral sweetness and a possible undercurrent is interesting. Notice how the flower practically engulfs her head; it’s almost surreal, and hints at a transformation of identity. There’s a performative element in both the “fancy dress” aspect and in being consumed by the floral persona. Curator: Absolutely. The "fancy dress" element invites a discussion about societal roles. Florence is not simply wearing a costume, she's embodying an ideal, a cultivated presentation of femininity but also suggesting possibilities outside expected norms. The color choices and drawing media would reinforce those ideas. Editor: The impressionistic touches and portrait-like framing contribute to the artifice. The lack of precise details, along with her coy smile, invite a subjective, emotional response rather than a rational assessment of her likeness. She seems deliberately constructed for our gaze. Curator: Right, it's as if we're peering into a curated fantasy, and the mass-produced format brings that fantasy to the masses, a dream peddled alongside a very earthly product. It speaks to the democratization of beauty ideals in that era. Editor: Reflecting on the design, the soft execution is wonderfully matched to its purpose as advertisement. But that does also raise questions of agency within portraiture; the artist and patron were more responsible for the subject’s visual meaning and narrative than Florence herself. Curator: It’s a rich layering of social cues, fashion, and symbolism packaged into a tiny, consumable format. It reflects how imagery becomes embedded with culture, prompting us to see beneath surface impressions.