Japonstrook van zwarte kloskant met brekende golven by Leon Sacré

Japonstrook van zwarte kloskant met brekende golven c. 1893

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fibre-art, textile

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fibre-art

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textile

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organic pattern

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repetition of pattern

Dimensions: length 1015 cm, width 26 cm, 16.5 cm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Curator: This striking textile work is entitled "Japonstrook van zwarte kloskant met brekende golven," created around 1893 by Leon Sacré. The flowing design is immediately arresting, isn't it? Editor: Absolutely. There's a kind of subdued intensity about it. The deep black, the almost violent waves juxtaposed with delicate floral motifs—it's more than decorative. There is tension within its composition. Curator: The piece exemplifies the Arts and Crafts movement's fascination with intricate patterns and a certain stylization of nature. The 'Japonstrook,' which translates to "Japan Strip", also suggests an embrace of Japonisme, fashionable in Europe at the time. Editor: And Orientalism more broadly, the West's sometimes-problematic fascination and appropriation of Eastern aesthetics. The “breaking waves” bring to mind Hokusai, yet it's rendered in the very Western technique of bobbin lace. What narratives were these cross-cultural conversations creating, or erasing? Who had access to lace like this? Curator: The labor! Oh, imagine the patience needed to craft this from black bobbin lace! I'm picturing candlelit workshops, rows of artisans meticulously interweaving these threads. The scale of repetitive motion… It would drive me mad! Editor: Precisely! These delicate textiles mask the labor conditions often endured by women, the hidden hands that produced these objects of beauty for a privileged clientele. Think of the intersection of class, gender, and artistic production embedded in its very fiber. Curator: I suppose I often see the romance of the past more than the… exploitation. I confess, I’m drawn to the almost melancholic beauty. The floral aspects, even though formal, somehow add lightness. It’s all so emotionally layered, this darkness, and delicate details, the almost-gothic overtones… It speaks volumes. Editor: It does. And it’s precisely that tension—between beauty and labor, appropriation and appreciation, art and commodity—that makes it such a potent artifact. These seemingly simple strips speak to global historical currents and enduring inequalities. Curator: Well, I shall certainly never look at lace the same way again. Thanks for shattering my romantic notions. Editor: Only to reveal something far richer beneath.

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