Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus (The Clothing of English Women) 1638 - 1640
print, engraving
portrait
baroque
charcoal drawing
portrait reference
portrait drawing
genre-painting
dress
engraving
Dimensions: height 133 mm, width 73 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
This etching titled, Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or the Clothing of English Women, was created in 1664 by Wenceslaus Hollar. Hollar, born in Prague, lived through the Thirty Years' War and later fled to England, where he made a name for himself documenting English society. Here, Hollar presents a woman of the English elite, draped in sumptuous fabrics and adorned with lace. Her identity is communicated through material wealth, and the image speaks to the era's rigid social hierarchies. Consider the complex interplay of gender and class: clothing dictates who has access to power. The fur muff she carries could signal warmth and protection, but also hints at the luxuries afforded to her, in contrast with those who created them. Hollar's detailed rendering invites us to think about how fashion can perform the complex work of signaling identity, while also masking the human labor required for its production.
Comments
The diversity of women’s apparel in England is illustrated in this extensive costume series. Hollar represented women from all ranks of society, from the humble countrywoman 1 to the elegant noblewoman 2. The more fashionable costumes are based on eyewitness observation of the ladies at the court of the Earl of Arundel, Hollar’s primary patron. They are therefore among the more reliable visual sources for costume historians.
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