Gallerie des Modes by Pierre Thomas Le Clerc

Gallerie des Modes c. 1778

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Dimensions: height 245 mm, width 175 mm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Curator: Today, we're looking at Pierre Thomas Le Clerc's "Gallerie des Modes," a drawing in ink on paper, dating back to around 1778. Editor: The immediate feeling is one of contained opulence, almost a hushed theatricality. The monochrome lends it a slightly melancholic air despite the extravagance of the dress. Curator: Indeed. The image encapsulates the societal obsession with fashion during the Rococo era. The dress, an enormous, intricate creation, speaks volumes about the status and identity of the wearer within that society. Editor: Absolutely. Notice how the lines, especially in the dress, create a system of patterns within patterns, drawing your eye along complex paths. Semiotically, each frill and fold functions as a signifier of wealth and leisure. Curator: And it's not just wealth; it is also about communication. Consider the act of reading a letter, as the woman is depicted doing. Letters at the time served as essential tools for connection, shaping relationships and driving social interactions, almost like the social media of its day. The paper she holds is the symbol of her inner world made tangible and shareable. Editor: The way the artist employs line to define the dress's texture is intriguing. The contrast in the shading emphasizes the sheer volume and artifice, the careful orchestration of appearance. I feel a strong push-pull relationship. Curator: I agree. There's tension between the performative aspect of fashion and its deeper psychological impact on the individual, and further amplified by the fact that there is only one individual—completely dominating her environment. The woman’s attire is more than simple decoration; it embodies power, gender roles, and the social structures of her era. Editor: The asymmetry and dynamism of the line work lend vitality to a very static subject. It really transcends documentation to create a nuanced representation of identity through its complex external expressions. Curator: What strikes me most is how Le Clerc preserves not just the image, but a whole lexicon of meanings embodied within that style. The dress lives on. Editor: Yes, its beauty lies not only in its elaborate detail, but the way that material reality still resonates emotionally even to this day.

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rijksmuseum over 1 year ago

In 1778 two young publishers tapped a previously undiscovered market with the launch of a series entitled Gallerie des Modes, which responded to the growing demand among Parisians for fashion news. Initially featuring only hairstyles, the series’ illustrations were later extended to include complete outfits to cater to its audience. These showed figures from head to toe. All ranks of French society were represented in a wide variety of fashionable clothes, from the simple negligée 1 to the robe à la polonaise 2 3, the robe à l’anglaise 4 and the occasional smart gentleman’s suit.

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