Journal des Luxus und der Moden 1788, Band III, T.14 1788

Editor: This pen drawing, "Journal des Luxus und der Moden 1788," comes from Friedrich Justin Bertuch's fashion journal. It's stunning how detailed and intricate the gown and feather headdress are! What strikes me most is the exaggeration in the fashion – what was the significance of such excess? Curator: The excesses depicted were absolutely a form of political messaging. Fashion during this era, particularly in France and spreading through Europe, became a potent signifier of status and wealth, heavily associated with the aristocracy. Think about the time: it's just before the French Revolution. Editor: So, the higher the hair and the bigger the dress, the more out of touch with reality one appeared? Curator: Precisely. The journal itself, "Journal des Luxus und der Moden," played a key role. It wasn't just reporting fashion, it was shaping and distributing an image of elite culture – sometimes aspirational, sometimes cautionary, but always reinforcing social hierarchies. Consider the context of increased literacy and a growing middle class. Images like these had a powerful reach. What statement was being made by its wide distribution? Who had access to such illustrations and who was omitted from them? Editor: It’s fascinating how something seemingly frivolous as fashion can hold such significant political weight. Were these journals popular across different social classes? Curator: Initially, access was largely confined to wealthier merchants and nobility. However, its influence trickled down, impacting fashion sensibilities even amongst those who could only dream of affording such garments. Fashionable attire wasn't merely about clothing but expressed a deeper aspiration towards social mobility and recognition. Editor: I hadn't considered the aspirational aspect so directly connected to class. I’ll certainly never look at a Rococo dress the same way again. Curator: Exactly. The study of material culture gives objects an entirely new importance.