Dimensions: height 196 mm, width 368 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
These portraits of Marthe Derminy, Myrtle Elvyn, and an unknown actress, were made by the photographic studio Walery. They're printed on paper, a mass-produced surface, yet the poses and costumes speak of high fashion. Notice the hats, adorned with feathers and ribbons. These were not simply bought off the rack; they were custom-made. The labor involved in producing these hats – the sourcing of feathers, the dyeing of fabrics, the skilled hands that assembled each piece – represents a whole economy of work. This image therefore reflects a society stratified by class, where the accoutrements of glamour depended on the labor of many. The photographic process also highlights the shifting dynamics of labor and technology. Photography democratized portraiture, making it accessible to a wider audience. In turn, it created a new type of labor: the studio photographer, who had to be both technically skilled and artistically adept. So, the next time you see a vintage photograph, remember that it's not just a static image, but a document of complex social and economic forces.
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