Jacket by Li

Jacket c. 20th century

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mixed-media, fibre-art, textile, cotton

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mixed-media

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fibre-art

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textile

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orientalism

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cotton

Dimensions: 11 5/16 x 15 5/8 in. (28.73 x 39.69 cm)

Copyright: Public Domain

Curator: Here we have an intriguing mixed-media textile, a jacket, believed to originate around the 20th century, and it resides here at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. What are your first thoughts? Editor: Immediately, I’m struck by the contrasting elements. The deep, almost somber black of the cotton dominates, yet it's punctuated by these vibrant, intricately woven geometric patterns at the cuffs and hem. There’s a real sense of functionality juxtaposed with decorative craft. Curator: Absolutely, the textile work begs us to consider its origin, which immediately conjures gendered roles. Was this made for practical use, adornment, perhaps something more? And what intersectional identities are present, considering not only gender, but also the socio-economic status implicit in the jacket's existence? The orientalist style also adds another layer to its reading, pushing one to wonder about possible narratives. Editor: That's an excellent point. Considering this "orientalist style" alongside the materiality: the cotton would have likely been sourced and processed, with various weaving techniques used. Thinking about this garment’s journey from raw material to finished product helps us trace potential trade routes and colonial influences as well. And looking at the work itself—how the black reinforces these symmetrical bands of decorative shapes – would we label that labor or love? I see incredible material knowledge in how it has been woven. Curator: I wonder about its silent testimony to issues such as power imbalances or cultural appropriation, especially with this label of orientalism. It definitely holds both aesthetic appeal and conceptual density, if only it could truly reveal its social framework to the viewers. Editor: Agreed, there are definitely complex stories woven in here, wouldn't you say? Its enduring physical presence acts as a very evocative trace. Thank you, as always. Curator: And thank you. A powerful work that leaves you thinking.

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