1920
Gazette du Bon Ton, 1920 - No. 10, Pl. 75: Hésitation / Déshabillé, de Beer
Charles Martin
1884 - 1934Location
RijksmuseumListen to curator's interpretation
Curatorial notes
Editor: Here we have Charles Martin's "Hésitation / Déshabillé, de Beer," plate 75 from the Gazette du Bon Ton, created in 1920. The watercolour illustration features a stylish woman in a lilac floral robe. It feels very much of its time, capturing that Art Deco aesthetic. What strikes you most about this piece? Curator: I’m immediately drawn to the context of "Gazette du Bon Ton." It was a prominent French fashion magazine, acting as a significant force in shaping and disseminating tastes of the elite after World War I. Knowing it aimed at an upper-class readership really colors my view. Does this feel more like advertisement or fine art to you? Editor: Good question. It feels… both? It's beautiful but also definitely selling something, or at least an aspiration. It’s interesting how fashion functioned then as both commodity and artistic expression. Curator: Precisely. Consider also the de Beer label – what was the socio-economic impact of a luxury brand like that, catering to a specific demographic while potentially reinforcing class divisions? We need to acknowledge the political nature of taste. The image subtly reinforces certain standards and privileges. Do you see a sense of luxury conveyed effectively in the drawing? Editor: Yes, in the fluidity of the robe, the detailing, even the woman’s pose exudes leisure and wealth. I hadn’t fully considered the social commentary aspect initially, but now I see the piece functions on more than just an aesthetic level. Curator: It's important to recognize that art doesn’t exist in a vacuum. Fashion, especially, serves as a mirror reflecting society's values and structures. Understanding this interplay reveals layers of meaning. Editor: That’s a really valuable point. I’ll definitely look at fashion illustrations differently now. Thanks for highlighting that cultural context.