photography, albumen-print
portrait
vintage
photography
historical fashion
19th century
albumen-print
realism
Dimensions: height 103 mm, width 62 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: Let's discuss this photograph entitled "Portret van een onbekende man," dating approximately from 1890 to 1910. It’s an albumen print portrait by Hk. Faber. Editor: My immediate impression is the formality, yet there’s a quiet stillness to his gaze. The oval frame intensifies the focus, pushing everything toward this unknown individual’s face. Curator: Indeed, the oval shape acts as a pictorial frame reinforcing classical portrait conventions. The photographer’s careful composition guides us toward a very specific reading of social class through details like the crisp lines of the man’s dark suit and tie, the double-breasted jacket. Editor: I find it fascinating how much the material tells us. Albumen prints, using egg whites, would’ve created this almost ethereal sheen. Think of the labor—collecting, processing eggs—before the picture even begins! These small format prints were immensely popular. So affordable images meant expanding markets. Curator: Absolutely, it highlights how advancements in the science of photography were evolving the possibilities for image construction and dissemination. We also need to consider how the conventions of formal portraiture here play out given photography’s indexical relationship to reality, meaning that every visible detail counts, as it stands in direct physical contact with what’s being recorded. Editor: I’m particularly drawn to the visible wear on the physical print; a tear along his jacket… it’s proof that the image was cherished, a hand-held object passed between viewers. To consider the emulsion itself, a thin skin derived from animal components... Curator: The semiotic implications, however, go beyond the tangible nature. He presents an example of late 19th-century masculinity. The rigid posture and stern expression, while now seeming antique, were social requirements—essential signifiers within that era’s social construct. Editor: A visual token, representative of how we choose to document memory and our social relations—and simultaneously, an economic artifact indicative of technological accessibility for the rising middle class. Curator: So we have this image serving simultaneously as a representational exercise and as an embodiment of a certain time period through materiality and subjecthood. Editor: Exactly. This small, faded print encapsulates a far broader network of economic systems, labor, and, crucially, how images like this democratized image-making for a broader spectrum of society.
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