Egyptian Beauty, from World's Beauties, Series 1 (N26) for Allen & Ginter Cigarettes 1888
drawing, lithograph, print, albumen-print
portrait
drawing
still-life-photography
lithograph
orientalism
portrait drawing
watercolour illustration
albumen-print
Dimensions: Sheet: 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 in. (7 x 3.8 cm)
Copyright: Public Domain
Curator: Well, what do you make of this piece? To me it feels very romantic. Editor: I find it more unsettling than romantic. The subject’s gaze is unnervingly direct, almost confrontational given the idealized treatment. Curator: This is "Egyptian Beauty" from the "World's Beauties" series by Allen & Ginter, dating to 1888. It's a lithograph and albumen print, originally inserted in cigarette packs. Quite a distance from canvas and oils. Editor: Yes, precisely! Consider the original context—a cheap insert intended to be discarded with the packaging. Now, look at how meticulously rendered the lace is, and how soft the skin tones are achieved. There's a real tension between its ephemeral nature and the aesthetic care taken in its design. It reminds me a lot of portrait drawings with watercolour illustrations. Curator: Interesting you pick up on that. These cards were intentionally printed to encourage collecting, driving sales. And beyond that initial function, these cards are visual documents of orientalism. Allen & Ginter relied heavily on these romanticized, often inaccurate, portrayals of foreign cultures. Editor: That is certainly something that we must bear in mind, but in a purely formal sense, there is also a certain geometry in the arrangement of the figure. The circle of her face, repeated in her headpiece and then mirrored in the vignette itself—it lends a sense of visual unity, making the viewing experience seem… harmonious, in its own strange way. Curator: While I understand your point about harmony, framing this purely through formalism ignores its cultural function, of this commercial exploitation through idealized and often untrue cultural portrayals, ultimately, it was a disposable marketing piece capitalizing on exoticism. Editor: A sobering perspective! It makes me appreciate even more its complex duality of both high craft and being mere commercial ephemera. Curator: Indeed. Looking through both of our lenses lets us dissect both what it is and how it functions—and appreciate the sum of both elements as much more valuable than its mere components.
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