Dimensions: 138 x 53 1/2 in. (350.52 x 135.89 cm)
Copyright: Public Domain
This rectangular shawl with fringe was most likely woven in Kashmir, though its exact date and maker are unknown. The red field with paisley motifs arranged in rows represents not only the high level of craftsmanship that Kashmiri weavers were capable of, but also the history of cross-cultural exchange. This textile design, which came to be known as "paisley" in the West, was transmitted through the routes of global trade between India and Europe as early as the 17th century. Demand for these shawls was so great that production was eventually industrialized in Europe. By the 19th century, European mills were creating textiles in imitation of the original Kashmiri design. What makes this textile particularly interesting for the social historian of art is the way it was transformed as it moved from one place to another. Further research into the records of textile production and trade would give us a clearer picture of the cultural exchanges that made this beautiful object possible.
Creating an impression of imposing size to reinforce personal importance is an artifice that has been used for centuries. The subtle variations of this theme employed by women to enhance their social standing involved a delicate balance between the desirability of being perceived as small, graceful and retiring and the importance of being recognized as a significant force in society. In the mid-nineteenth century, the use of voluminous crinoline skirts and large, elaborately patterned shawls, such as this one, made sure one was easily seen. In contrast to the abundance of cloth the female would appear quite delicate. Shawls that were handwoven in India, such as this one, were costly imports to Europe and America. The style was so popular that many European textile centers, from Paisley, Scotland to France and Austria, created a variety of woven and printed imitations. Thus the quality of design and technical refinement of the cloth clearly defined one's wealth and social standing.
Join millions of artists and users on Artera today and experience the ultimate creative platform.