Mohnköpfe (Poppyheads) (Dress or Furnishing Fabric) 1900

This striking fabric, ‘Mohnköpfe (Poppyheads)’, was designed by Koloman Moser, an artist of the Viennese Secession. It’s difficult to say exactly when it was made. The method of production would have been industrial, probably roller-printed, but the design still shows the traces of hand-crafting. The pattern, rendered in shades of red, repeats the stylized motif of poppy seed heads. The design shows the influence of Japanese art, with the flat, graphic forms and the emphasis on stylized natural motifs typical of the decorative arts. The appeal of fabrics such as this one lay in their affordability and the efficiency of their production. The industrial processes used would have created a division of labor, with specialized workers overseeing the design, printing, and finishing of the fabric. Moser’s creation embodies the tension between artistic expression and industrial production that characterized the applied arts. It demonstrates the value of considering materials, making, and context in understanding the full meaning of an artwork, challenging traditional distinctions between fine art and craft.