[Actress wearing choker necklace], from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-8) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes by W. Duke, Sons & Co.

[Actress wearing choker necklace], from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-8) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes 1890 - 1895

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drawing, print, photography, gelatin-silver-print

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portrait

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drawing

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print

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charcoal drawing

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photography

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coloured pencil

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gelatin-silver-print

Dimensions: Sheet: 2 11/16 × 1 3/8 in. (6.8 × 3.5 cm)

Copyright: Public Domain

Curator: Ah, this print has a rather beguiling presence. The gelatin-silver print we are observing comes from a series titled “Actors and Actresses,” created by W. Duke, Sons & Co. sometime between 1890 and 1895. Editor: There's an arresting vulnerability in her gaze, isn't there? Even within the rather staged composition, her slightly tilted head and the shadow play create an intimate and affecting encounter. Curator: Indeed. Considering the source of this image—Duke Cigarettes—one recognizes that it served primarily as advertising, a collectible insert. We must acknowledge the broader socio-economic factors underpinning its production. Editor: Precisely. It highlights the commercialization of beauty and celebrity, aligning itself to emerging consumer culture. Although visually striking, the use of photographs such as this also helped further class stratification, even by giving women autonomy. Curator: It is noteworthy how her clothing and jewellery take a front seat to the composition; in that regard, it's more than just the performer being "sold". Editor: Tell me more about that focus of materiality? I found myself most impacted by the expression and emotion that are not explicit. Curator: I would posit that the success of this picture plane comes from how both the actress and object within, come to meet halfway with a feeling—as if the portrait is no more than the sum of those aspects. In her gaze, for example, what is captured is only this liminal, temporal feeling and gaze, forever. Editor: I concede the potency of that combination. Looking at this today forces a reckoning: we must acknowledge that an industry commodifies not only people, but also the intangible sense of belonging we derive from image association. Curator: Quite. And within that space, even ephemera like this still carries complex cultural information, regardless of original intentions. Editor: This reminds me to view portraits critically and look for nuances beyond aesthetics. Every detail bears history. Curator: Likewise, observing the picture’s own composition brings a reminder: appreciate beauty beyond first sight, acknowledge historical frameworks—only then can it show us what can, otherwise, remain hidden.

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