Card Number 375, Miss Jarbeau, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-7) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes 1880s
print, photography
portrait
figuration
photography
erotic-art
Dimensions: Sheet: 2 11/16 × 1 3/8 in. (6.8 × 3.5 cm)
Copyright: Public Domain
Curator: The sepia tone lends this rather diminutive print, approximately the size of a playing card, a melancholic air. The stark pose against a vaguely ornate backdrop presents an interesting study in contrasts. Editor: Indeed. What we are looking at is "Card Number 375, Miss Jarbeau, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-7)," produced by W. Duke, Sons & Co., sometime in the 1880s as a promotional item for their Duke Cigarettes. It now resides in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Curator: Promotional art, even something this simple, tells us about societal values. Look at the geometry of the composition; the crisscrossing of limbs, the near triangle formed by the torso. Note also the subtle lighting that highlights her curves while simultaneously obscuring specific detail, offering a controlled form of visibility. Editor: Absolutely. These cards were immensely popular, showcasing the celebrities and performers of the day and speaking to an era when such images offered accessible aspiration. These cards provided a tangible connection to celebrity culture, fueling the desire for glamour and the allure of the stage. Curator: And consider her presentation: the coy look, the strategic costuming. It invites scrutiny while projecting an almost performative modesty. The gaze is met but not held, implicating the viewer. Editor: Yes, we see an emerging modern form of advertising exploiting the increasing commercialization of leisure, fame, and even desire itself. Tobacco companies, in particular, understood how associating their products with beautiful and celebrated women would appeal to a broad consumer base. These trading cards were tools of consumerist manipulation in the late nineteenth century. Curator: So, beneath a seemingly innocuous portrait, we unearth narratives around structure and control. It asks whether Miss Jarbeau is inviting, or if her representation is exploiting her form. Editor: Yes, the tension between commercial need and artistry is palpable here. These tiny, mass-produced images served to solidify a new visual language about celebrity and product association, one we’re still negotiating today. It is no less thought-provoking when seen from that angle.
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