Louise Dillon in Costume of the Middle Ages, from the set Actors and Actresses, Second Series (N71) for Duke brand cigarettes 1888 - 1890

Editor: Here we have "Louise Dillon in Costume of the Middle Ages," created between 1888 and 1890, part of a series of cigarette cards by W. Duke, Sons & Co. It's a small watercolor print, and I'm struck by how this seemingly innocent image engages with historical representation. What can you tell us about its broader context? Curator: It's fascinating how commercial ephemera like this reflects and shapes perceptions of history, particularly concerning gender and class. The “Middle Ages” became a popular symbol during the late 19th century. It wasn't necessarily about historical accuracy but more about constructing an idealized version of femininity. Editor: Idealized how? What are we meant to understand about women during this time period? Curator: Consider the power dynamics at play. Louise Dillon, the actress, is costumed and presented for mass consumption. She is being sold through cigarettes to reinforce idealized notions of beauty, virtue, and femininity from this period. Editor: It’s interesting how a trading card becomes part of that social fabric and impacts how an audience views history and gender. So the Middle Ages costume almost sanitizes her for public consumption, for the male gaze perhaps? Curator: Precisely. It speaks volumes about the Victorian era’s obsession with moralizing the female image for marketing and maintaining existing patriarchal norms. How effective do you find this sort of image when recontextualized? Does its visual vocabulary still speak? Editor: Thinking about it critically, yes. Highlighting that a piece of commercial work can hold within it all sorts of gendered expectations does spark curiosity for sure. Thanks! Curator: My pleasure, examining these assumptions and the social environment which makes the work visible is a good starting point.