photography
portrait
pictorialism
photography
realism
Dimensions: height 102 mm, width 63 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: This is a fascinating portrait, "Portret van een onbekende vrouw met hoed," possibly from 1905-1907, by Franz Eiffert. The subdued tones give it a very serene, almost melancholic quality. What do you see when you look at this photograph? Curator: Immediately, I am struck by the materiality present. Not just the photographic emulsion on the card, but also the sitter's attire. Her ruffled collar, the textured sleeves, and the ornamentation – they all speak to a very specific economic bracket. This portrait signifies access, both for the sitter and for the photographer himself. This level of adornment requires a degree of surplus. Editor: So, you're focusing on what her clothes tell us? Curator: Exactly. Consider the time. Early 20th century. Photography is becoming more accessible, but a studio portrait remains a considered expense. Look closer, and think about the labor involved in crafting those clothes. Who made them? What were their working conditions? What does her ability to consume signify? Editor: It's interesting to think about this photograph not just as a depiction of a woman, but as evidence of broader economic forces at play. The artist's address at the bottom, ‘232 Heeren,’ must have been his place of commerce, also implying a degree of wealth. Curator: Precisely. Even the backdrop is manufactured, suggesting the studio's attempt to present a certain artificial reality. What does this staged ‘realism’ tell us about social aspirations? Editor: I hadn't considered the staged aspect so directly. It reframes how I look at early portrait photography. Curator: The interplay of subject, photographer, and consumer creates a powerful image reflecting not only an individual likeness, but also the conditions of its own making. This photographic "realism" becomes much more than just aesthetics, reflecting the political economy and culture from which it originates.
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