Portret van Oreste Cortazzo before 1878

This photograph of Oreste Cortazzo was produced by Ferdinand Mulnier in the late 19th century. Notice how Cortazzo dons a soft beret and neatly tailored double breasted jacket, indicating an attempt to present himself as an artist or intellectual, even in the absence of explicit symbols of his profession. This sartorial choice echoes across centuries— think of Rembrandt’s self-portraits in velvet caps, or even further back to the simple robes of ancient philosophers. In each, the clothing serves as a visual shorthand, signaling a dedication to thought and creativity. The beret, in particular, morphs from a practical head covering to a signifier of bohemian freedom and artistic insight, reminiscent of the Phrygian cap of antiquity. There’s an emotional appeal here as well. The careful cultivation of appearance speaks to a deep-seated desire for recognition and belonging, a psychological dance as old as art itself.