Les Colchiques ; Manteau de voyage de Paquin. 1914

This pochoir print by George Barbier depicts a travel coat by Paquin. Pochoir, a highly refined method of stenciling, allowed artists to make prints with the rich color and texture of painting. Here, the flat planes of color articulate the elegant cut of the coat, its sumptuous fur collar, and the fashionable fabrics underneath. Consider how this meticulous process contrasts with the speed and scale of industrial garment production at the time. The print is suggestive of textiles’ global reach, especially regarding the fur, and even the bulbs emerging from the ground around the model, referencing trade and colonization. Barbier’s print represents not only a garment but the idea of luxury and sophistication, elevating fashion illustration to an art form. By blurring the lines between fine art and commercial design, Barbier invites us to consider the cultural and economic forces shaping our visual world.