Shaker Dress Material by Lucille Gilchrist

Shaker Dress Material 1936

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drawing, textile, paper

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drawing

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textile

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paper

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geometric

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abstraction

Dimensions: overall: 18.8 x 27.9 cm (7 3/8 x 11 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Curator: So, what are your first impressions of this piece? It’s a study from 1936 titled "Shaker Dress Material" by Lucille Gilchrist. It's paper with textile and drawing. Editor: I'm immediately struck by its…well, humility. It’s a very modest square of woven material rendered on paper. There’s an almost defiant lack of pretension about it. Curator: Exactly! The Shakers were all about simple living and honest craftsmanship. This piece really reflects their values. Their clothing, architecture, furniture…everything was functional and without excessive ornament. They produced items collectively. Gilchrist focuses on their craft practice. Editor: I notice how the texture of the cloth is replicated, thread by thread. It draws your attention to the act of weaving itself—the labor, the repetitive movements. What was the textile’s original purpose? Curator: Given the title, it was designed as material for Shaker clothing. Gilchrist was part of the Index of American Design, a WPA program, to document examples of American design. So here we have New Deal patronage preserving visual records of Shaker material culture. It reveals the cultural legacy that institutions preserve. Editor: It also makes you think about production chains and human effort that mass-produced fabric often hides today. There is a certain tension to appreciate it today for this quiet dedication to workmanship. Curator: These kinds of preservation projects elevated traditionally undervalued craft forms into art. They also offer a commentary on contemporary production and consumerism, even back then. Editor: Right, this rendering really foregrounds the artistry inherent in everyday objects and manual processes that so easily vanish from view. It transforms the mundane into something meditative. Curator: It is a gentle and compelling commentary about the dignity of labor. Editor: Well, this little unassuming square of cloth has given me plenty to ponder regarding industry and ingenuity. Curator: Agreed. There is unexpected complexity embedded in its simplicity.

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