Recueil de la diversité des habits (A Collection of the Various Styles of Clothing)

François Desprez created this print, “A Collection of the Various Styles of Clothing,” sometime in the 16th century. Here, Desprez depicts a Persian woman, or at least, his idea of one, in elaborate dress. Fashion prints like this one played a crucial role in the 16th century by codifying social differences. The clothing clearly signifies the status and identity of the wearer. The choice to represent foreign dress is telling, too. It reflects the interest of the French court in cultures that were then considered exotic, as France expanded its trade networks. However, we should be wary of taking such images at face value. Consider how the artist may have embellished or even fantasized the dress of the depicted woman. How accurate could it be? Such questions about the politics of imagery can only be answered by deeper historical research into the trade routes, the fashion industry and the reception of foreign cultures in Early Modern France.