Mourning accessory set 1893 - 1897

Editor: We're looking at a "Mourning accessory set," dating from 1893 to 1897, by Wanamaker's. It's made of textile and part of the Met's collection. It's hard not to feel the somber mood of this piece; the dark fabric drapes so heavily. What do you see in it? Curator: I see more than just sadness, although that's undeniably present. The Victorian era, especially toward the late 19th century, was fascinated with death. This set isn’t just about grief; it's a fashion statement, a performance even, playing out the rituals of mourning. It’s almost theatrical, isn’t it? All that black fabric enveloping the wearer, creating this barrier between them and the world. A world from which, in their grief, they’re at least partially withdrawn. Editor: Theatrical...I hadn’t thought of it that way! I was so focused on the sadness. Curator: Think about the textures too – the interplay between the heavier fabric and the sheer veil. It hints at both concealment and revelation, doesn’t it? Almost as if the wearer is simultaneously hiding from the world and displaying their sorrow. Editor: That's a brilliant point. What would something like this have signaled to other people during the time? Curator: It signaled respectability, adherence to social norms, and of course, profound loss. The depth of mourning could be gauged by how closely one followed these dress codes. Mourning attire dictated everything from fabric to jewelry; there were unspoken rules for how long one had to wear black after the death of a spouse, parent, or sibling. Imagine that constant visual reminder! Editor: I never thought about mourning as a costume. Thank you; that gave me a fresh way of thinking about fashion and culture. Curator: It’s funny, isn't it? We often think of fashion as frivolous, but something like this shows its power to express and shape the deepest emotions.