Cape 1893 - 1899

Curator: Standing before us is a captivating cape, likely crafted between 1893 and 1899. It hails from the House of Worth and is currently housed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Editor: My first impression? An intriguing study in contrasts—a somber color palette brought to life by vivacious texture. The ruffles and cascading elements almost give it a life of its own. Curator: Precisely! House of Worth was at the pinnacle of haute couture at the time; the cape demonstrates the way clothing in this period became infused with political meaning through displays of luxury and class distinction. Only wealthy women could acquire and wear such clothing. Editor: Speaking of that wealth, let’s consider the formal arrangement. The composition's complex, the eye struggles to find rest. There's a cascade of frills that lead you down the form but the black almost swallows up all the detail unless you step up close to see each layer, ruffle, and bit of embellishment. Curator: That dramatic effect would have resonated within specific societal expectations. A Worth design served as an emblem, projecting both refined taste and, more crucially, social eminence. In that period of nascent modernity, apparel frequently functioned as a critical indication of belonging. Editor: And what do you make of the color, or lack thereof? While many garments from this era use colors that project warmth and regality, it almost evokes absence. Curator: Mourning became extremely fashionable, so its ubiquity was indicative of that period. Wearing such garments allowed aristocratic women to openly grieve losses, so in effect the color did offer them protection under the veil of social custom. Editor: It's fascinating how a color can be both an expression and a restraint! In looking more closely at the textures now, I am struck by the interplay between opacity and transparency and the effect they must create in motion. It is almost cinematic! Curator: I think this garment encapsulates an era undergoing social changes but with very clear social guidelines dictating access and acceptance, from the labor that created these kinds of embellishments to the status that a name like "Worth" conveyed. Editor: Yes, examining how design functions to relay and solidify status has revealed an entire other story behind its beauty, so that when we think of this piece it will be impossible to see just the fabric and color ever again.