Shaker Bonnet c. 1936

Frances Cohen, between 1855 and 1995, rendered this Shaker Bonnet with a clear attentiveness to both form and material. The bonnet's crown is depicted with watercolor in a woven texture, likely emulating straw or woven cloth, materials chosen by the Shakers for their practicality and modesty. The crisp lines of the white fabric denote its simple shape, as the pleats, seams and ties suggest the labor and skill required to assemble the bonnet. Note that an outline of a second bonnet is visible in the lower left corner, which could be interpreted as a study for a new design or variation. The Shakers were known for their communal living, pacifism, and commitment to simple living. They valued utility and quality, and these principles are seen in the bonnet, which protects the wearer from the elements while symbolizing humility and uniformity within the community. Cohen’s work celebrates these ideals by combining fine art techniques with the representation of everyday objects. By focusing on the bonnet’s material qualities and the process of its construction, Cohen highlights the value of craft and labor within Shaker society, and by extension, within art itself.