Brieventas van M.A. de Ruyter c. 1650 - 1675

Editor: Here we have a 17th-century embroidered wallet, titled "Brieventas van M.A. de Ruyter," its maker, anonymous. The subdued green velvet, decorated with floral motifs in grey thread, feels quite luxurious, almost stately. What strikes you most about this piece? Curator: It’s the velvet itself, isn’t it? And the embroidery. These materials speak volumes. Velvet was a costly commodity, a signifier of wealth and status in the Dutch Golden Age. Consider the labor involved in its production: from cultivating the silkworms to weaving the fabric. And then the meticulous embroidery, likely the work of skilled, yet perhaps anonymous, female artisans. Editor: So, the materials and the process tell the story as much as the wallet’s function? Curator: Absolutely. The floral design, while decorative, isn’t simply aesthetic. Think about access to those patterns. Where did they come from? Were they unique designs or copied from pattern books? This kind of detailed work demanded not only skill but a significant investment of time. Who could afford such a luxury, and what does that say about Dutch society then? It's about more than mere beauty; it reflects the social relations of production. The velvet signals a privileged lifestyle. What do you make of it? Editor: I’m starting to see how it challenges the notion of "fine art." The level of craft here is so elevated, the time and materials so precious... It makes you question where to draw the line between art and craft. It also makes me think about who created it. What do we know about that? Curator: Exactly! That's what's important. Though anonymous, considering similar works and class norms, we might assume it was women. The embroidery, therefore, might speak to the gendering of labour at the time and open up a wider narrative beyond simply it being pretty. Now, seeing it this way, what final reflections do you have? Editor: It makes me realize how much we overlook when we focus solely on the surface. Thinking about the labour, the materials, gives a whole new depth to an object like this. Curator: Precisely. The material speaks!