Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Augustus 1808, No. 54: Chapeau de Paille blanche... 1808
drawing, print
portrait
drawing
historical fashion
traditional dress
romanticism
fashion sketch
dress
Dimensions: height 218 mm, width 120 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: This is an interesting print – an anonymous fashion plate from 1808 titled "Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Augustus 1808, No. 54: Chapeau de Paille blanche...". The dress looks so simple and delicate. What stands out to you? Curator: Immediately, I see the socio-economic implications embedded in this image. Consider the materials: linen or cotton, perhaps, for the dress – fabrics associated with specific labor practices and trade routes in 1808. What does the idealized portrayal of this woman tell us about the consumer culture of the time? Who could afford such refined simplicity, and what kind of labor went into producing it? Editor: So, not just the aesthetic value, but the whole industry behind it? The raw materials, the people who made the fabric... Curator: Precisely. Think about the global context: Where did the cotton come from? Who spun the yarn, wove the cloth, and sewed the garment? The seemingly innocuous "chapeau de paille blanche" – who harvested the straw, and what was their social class? This image isn’t just about fashion; it's a document of production, labor, and consumption. Even the print medium itself tells a story: the engraver’s skill, the availability of paper, and the printing process all point to specific technological and economic conditions. Editor: It is easy to overlook all the layers. What about the fact that it’s a print? Does that make it more accessible and reproducible? Curator: Yes, that's key. The print medium allowed for the wider dissemination of these ideals, influencing trends and shaping desires amongst a broader audience. What impact did it have on manufacturing and fashion? This wasn't just about individual expression; it was about creating a market. Editor: I hadn't considered how deeply embedded economic factors are within even a seemingly straightforward image of a dress. Curator: Exactly. By focusing on the materiality and the means of production, we reveal the complex social fabric that underpins this image of "elegance."
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