Opera Nova Universali intitulata Corona di racammi, page 30 (verso) 1530

This is a page from Giovanni Andrea Vavassore’s embroidery pattern book, printed in Venice sometime in the mid-16th century. These weren’t drawn by hand; they were made with a printing press, using carved blocks of wood to transfer the images to paper. Each page like this one would have been a reference for needle workers who wanted to create the latest designs. The patterns themselves were modular, made of simple geometric steps. This reflects the repetitive nature of the craft; each stitch a small act of labor, multiplied many times over. It also shows the influence of the printing press; the designs themselves are conceived like rows of type. You could almost imagine these patterns being printed directly onto fabric. The book presented an array of options, democratizing design and fueling the growth of the textile industry. Next time you see historical embroidery, consider the labor involved, and the way printed designs accelerated the pace of production. It is a reminder that all forms of making, from the most humble to the most virtuosic, are intertwined.