Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien, 1805, An 13 (636) Chapeau orné de Touffes de Violettes. 1805

This fashion plate was created by Horace Vernet in Paris around 1805, using etching and hand-colouring. While seemingly simple, the print offers a window onto the complex world of textile production in the early 19th century. Look closely and you’ll see the subject is entirely enveloped in textiles. The dress and shawl are made of muslin, a lightweight cotton fabric that was incredibly popular at the time. Despite its delicate appearance, muslin was a product of global trade and colonial exploitation. Vast quantities were produced by enslaved laborers, then shipped to Europe for manufacture into fashionable garments. The violet embellishments of the hat, also speak to the material culture of the time. Vernet’s print, therefore, represents the intersection of fashion, labor, and empire. The image’s elegance belies the raw materials extracted from distant lands, and the immense amount of work involved in the production process. Remembering this context is critical to understanding the print’s full meaning.