Dimensions: length 139 cm, length 224 cm, waist 68 cm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: This is a wedding dress, possibly from between 1908 and 1918, with ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves, made of textile. It strikes me as so elegant and restrained, especially with the high neckline. What features stand out to you? Curator: The very structure dictates the aesthetic. Observe the verticality established by the pleating at the bust and neck; it's juxtaposed beautifully against the smooth, flowing skirt. This deliberate contrast of texture creates visual interest and underscores the overall formality. Editor: It does give it a very particular shape, doesn't it? What about the colour? Curator: Precisely. The subtle gradation in hue – from the concentrated folds above to the luminous expanse below – lends a sense of depth and volume. The way light interacts with the material's weave becomes a crucial element of the composition. Notice too, the absence of bold ornamentation. It redirects focus back to the very construction and articulation of form. Editor: So, the design itself becomes the decoration. Do you think the cut of the sleeves contributes to this effect as well? Curator: Indubitably. The exaggerated ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves, while striking, maintain the dress's architectural integrity. They extend the shoulder line dramatically but are skillfully balanced by the streamlined silhouette below the waist. It's a triumph of equilibrium. Editor: It's amazing how much one can learn by just focusing on the design! Curator: Indeed. Through rigorous visual analysis, we uncover the artistry inherent in the dress's very fabric, construction, and form. Editor: Thanks for pointing that out; I'll certainly never look at bridal fashion the same way again.
Comments
Anna Clara Lieftinck married Jonkheer Hendrik T. Teding van Berkhout in Groningen on 8 November 1908. This dress is incomplete: it was originally worn with a wide, ruffled lace flounce that covered the upper part of the bodice from shoulder to shoulder. The bride had borrowed the flounce, as well as a lace veil, from the groom’s younger married sister.
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