1917 - 1918
Les modes
Galerie Manzi, Joyant & Cie.
@galeriemanzijoyantcieThe Metropolitan Museum of Art
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NYListen to curator's interpretation
Curatorial notes
Editor: This is an interesting one. It's a print titled "Les modes" created between 1917 and 1918 and attributed to Galerie Manzi, Joyant & Cie. What jumps out is the somber mood, all that machinery, but also that it’s on a fashion magazine cover. I’m a little thrown; what do you see in this piece? Curator: Oh, that tension you feel? That's precisely the point, I think. This isn't just fashion; it's about women's changing roles during World War I. Notice how the image within the magazine cover depicts a woman working with heavy machinery in a munitions factory. Do you see how that challenges the traditional depiction of women at the time? Editor: It does, especially presented as an issue on "fashion"! So the magazine is trying to portray these factory workers in a… fashionable light? Is it meant to be empowering, or is it something else? Curator: Perhaps both? "Fashionable" might not be the right word, maybe "modern". It's acknowledging women's essential contribution to the war effort, visually merging them into the gears of production. This blend of photography and montage – an emerging art form back then– speaks volumes. This is new, bold, maybe a little unsettling… fashion wasn't about fancy dresses anymore; it was about a different kind of power. How does that shift resonate with you? Editor: It makes you think, for sure. It’s way more complex than just clothes. Seeing it this way, fashion can reflect some deeper shifts in society. Thanks for pointing that out! Curator: My pleasure! I'm glad we could connect today and wander around it!