A Lady in a Bonnet and Coat 1815 - 1892

Editor: This drawing, "A Lady in a Bonnet and Coat," is by Constantin Guys, dating from sometime between 1815 and 1892. It's rendered in ink, watercolor, and charcoal, and is currently housed here at the Met. I’m struck by the imposing scale of her coat in relation to the almost ghostly figures behind her. What do you see in this piece, particularly in how she is represented? Curator: Well, first, consider the bonnet itself. The elaborate design, almost a cage for the head, speaks of status and adherence to social dictates. But what does it conceal? And look at the darkness of the coat, almost like a shroud engulfing her. Does this heavy garment symbolize the restrictions placed on women of the era, or perhaps a hidden power, a shield against the gazes of the men who seem to lurk in the background? What do you make of those figures behind her? Editor: I see them now, they do seem to lurk. Perhaps she is strolling in the city and aware of being watched by these men, made to feel self-conscious. The dark coat is perhaps the means to assert herself and navigate this city as a female, protecting her from this male gaze? Curator: Precisely! It's a garment that signifies both visibility and invisibility. Consider also how Guys used quick, almost frantic lines. Is it merely the immediacy of a street sketch, or does it hint at the psychological unease of the subject? The lines themselves feel loaded, wouldn't you say? They create a tension between representation and emotional expression. It is interesting to see this Romantic portrait as also an early comment on the cityscape as the backdrop for gendered social roles and awareness. Editor: I do agree, there is a palpable nervous energy, it is in the dark coat that surrounds and hides this person, as much as in the frantic marks surrounding her in the composition. The symbols within a seemingly simple portrait are really fascinating to unravel and consider in relation to the period and how people navigate the urban space. Thanks!