Jacket by Dorothy Gernon

Jacket c. 1937

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drawing

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drawing

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historical fashion

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line

Dimensions: overall: 30.3 x 22.8 cm (11 15/16 x 9 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Curator: Welcome. We're looking at a design drawing by Dorothy Gernon from about 1937. It’s simply titled "Jacket" and presents a vividly patterned bolero-style jacket with an accompanying blouse sketched in the top right corner. What are your initial thoughts? Editor: It feels like a moment suspended between austerity and extravagance. The colours, though muted, suggest an attempt at exuberance which is reined in by the regimented stripes and lace. It also looks surprisingly modern. Curator: Interesting. In the late 1930s, fashion was greatly influenced by economic recovery following the Depression but was simultaneously looking ahead war, impacting material choices. This could reflect an attempt at optimism balanced with constraint. The jacket's form follows prevailing trends with an emphasis on the waist and tailored silhouette. Editor: Absolutely. The use of lace in contrast with those bold, vertical stripes is interesting, like two very different eras meeting. What kind of social setting do you imagine this garment being worn in? Was it widely accessible, do you think? Curator: The level of detail suggests either a bespoke item or an inspiration piece for a wider market. Lace would indicate a degree of affluence, placing it likely within middle to upper-class social spheres. Gernon likely worked as designer interpreting the haute couture for the high street. These drawings were very important in mediating between the wealthy fashion houses and the broader public's desire for fashionable clothing. Editor: That mediating role is so key to understanding its cultural impact. It points to a tension, doesn't it? Fashion's purpose here, serving aspirational consumerism for some and perhaps unobtainable dreams for others depending on their socio-economic realities. This piece seems to embody that inherent imbalance. Curator: Exactly. Furthermore, consider that at this time women were increasingly entering the workforce while simultaneously pressured to maintain a refined domestic image. Garments like this jacket could embody both: structure and polish alongside a softer femininity. Editor: Looking at it now through that lens really clarifies the intentionality behind this piece. What began as a visually intriguing design element now speaks to wider issues of access, social standing, and the negotiated roles of women during that era. Curator: Indeed, and by examining Dorothy Gernon’s ‘Jacket’, we glean insights beyond mere aesthetics, delving into the intricate interplay of societal forces. Editor: Definitely food for thought and perfectly capturing the past through the details of clothing design.

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