Frankie Kemle, from the Actors and Actresses series (N171) for Gypsy Queen Cigarettes 1886 - 1890

Curator: This albumen print from between 1886 and 1890, showcases Frankie Kemle, an actress, and was produced by Goodwin & Company as part of a series of collectible cards for Gypsy Queen Cigarettes. Editor: The delicate sepia tone creates a beautiful, nostalgic mood. The composition, with the soft focus and her slightly averted gaze, emphasizes her flowing hair as a cascade that really captivates. Curator: Exactly, and these cards were designed as promotional items—distributed within cigarette packs—reflecting the late 19th century’s growing celebrity culture and the ways in which tobacco companies sought to associate their products with glamour and artistry. They were wildly popular at the time! Editor: There's an incredible emphasis on texture, the print manages to convey the weight and softness of the hair with minimal tonal shifts. The choice of albumen gives the image an almost dreamlike feel. Curator: It’s fascinating how these seemingly disposable commercial items have now become valuable artifacts. They offer insight into the popular entertainment and ideals of beauty of the era. Think about how this image of Frankie would have circulated—passing from the factory workers assembling the cards to those buying cigarettes. Editor: I wonder about Frankie Kemble's reaction to having her likeness reproduced in such a context. But getting back to the aesthetics, there's something uniquely haunting about the way she holds the look just below the camera, like she is holding something back. Curator: The actresses series reveals how women were both idealized and commodified in visual culture, it reflects a time when advertising and media were shaping societal views of women, a powerful visual shorthand. Editor: Ultimately, its success rests in the technical control the photographers wielded, allowing the image's intrinsic pictorial qualities to give it a surprisingly haunting dimension that lingers today. Curator: Indeed, and hopefully this audio guide provided insights into a bygone world. Editor: Agreed! Thanks for this conversation.