Borduursels voor het uniform van de vlagofficieren van de Marine, 1845 1845

Here we see Louis Salomon Leman's design from 1845, “Embroidery for the Uniform of Flag Officers of the Navy,” created with pen and brush in brown and gray. During this period, uniforms in the Dutch navy reflected not just functionality but also a hierarchy deeply embedded in colonial power structures. These designs, featuring oak leaves and acorns, symbolize strength and endurance, qualities valued in naval officers. The elaborate embroidery speaks to the visual language of status and authority. However, the artistry also reflects a complex tension. While the Dutch flaunted their naval prowess, the labor and resources extracted from colonized lands were often obscured. So, who made these garments, and under what conditions? Were they imbued with the emotional labor of invisible hands? By engaging with this piece, we are invited to reflect on how symbols of national pride are often intertwined with histories of exploitation and inequality. The design invites us to consider the human cost behind such displays of power.