Spencer c. 1940

Nancy Crimi rendered "Spencer" with watercolor and graphite on paper, creating a record of fashion history. The "Spencer" jacket, popular in the late 1790s and early 1800s, embodies the dramatic shift in women's fashion during the French Directoire and subsequent Empire periods. This neoclassical style moved away from the elaborate, structured garments of the aristocracy, embracing simpler, high-waisted silhouettes inspired by ancient Greek and Roman ideals. While ostensibly a move towards freedom and naturalism, this fashion was also deeply entangled with social and political changes. The rise of a new middle class and the decline of the aristocracy led to the democratization of clothing. Paintings, fashion plates, and periodicals served as powerful tools for disseminating these styles. Artists like Crimi, through their meticulous documentation, allow us to trace the evolution of fashion. Resources in costume history and social history help to interpret these images. They expose how clothing reflects and shapes the social norms of its time.