Marie Roze, from World's Beauties, Series 2 (N27) for Allen & Ginter Cigarettes 1888

Curator: Here we have "Marie Roze," a striking lithograph produced in 1888 by Allen & Ginter as part of their "World's Beauties" cigarette card series. It’s currently held in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Editor: The first thing that grabs me is the colour palette, it's really quite soft, despite that vibrant red headscarf. There's something about the print quality that almost looks like it was applied by hand rather than mechanically reproduced, but I suspect that's deceptive. Curator: These cards offer us a fascinating glimpse into the cultural values of the late 19th century, portraying popular actresses and celebrities, effectively creating and circulating idealized images of beauty for mass consumption. The politics of visibility are central here; what did it mean to be considered beautiful and worthy of being collected? Editor: Absolutely, and I think it speaks volumes about the role of the consumer in manufacturing those meanings. We tend to dismiss the craft, but there’s skill in preparing those lithographic stones and creating the various layers of colour. Curator: What is also fascinating is the distribution channel; these weren't fine art prints displayed in a gallery. They came as bonuses, ephemeral, yet also collectible objects included with cigarette packs. The tobacco industry essentially leveraged female images to normalize and even glamorize cigarette smoking, specifically as a way of engaging men. Editor: Yes! They would’ve employed highly skilled print workers, often working in miserable conditions and the card then enters this cycle of industrial production, commodification, and disposal or collecting… it creates a complicated web of production and consumption. The materiality, in this case, plays a critical role in accessing this historical product and consumer network. Curator: That said, Marie Roze was indeed a celebrated singer in her day, her image here contributes to her constructed celebrity persona and allows us to appreciate how mass-produced images shaped her cultural impact, as well as the social function of art within society. Editor: Looking at it now, considering all those facets of the means of production adds depth to an image which seems initially, simply decorative. I can’t look at the headscarf now without seeing the entire factory and supply chains behind the production of this little image. Curator: Exactly, and through it, we appreciate how popular art intertwined with celebrity culture, marketing, and the emerging mass media landscape of the Gilded Age.