Maud Waldermere, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

Editor: This sepia-toned image shows Maud Waldermere from around 1890. It's a collotype print that was actually a promotional card for Sweet Caporal Cigarettes by Kinney Brothers. She looks so self-assured, almost daring, but there’s also a wistful quality to her gaze. What strikes you most about this image? Curator: What immediately jumps out is how she embodies a powerful and evolving feminine ideal of that period. Consider the historical context – the late 19th century was a period of great social change, and the image of women was very carefully managed and marketed. This image complicates things by being a performer promoted by a tobacco company. Editor: That makes sense. The image is mass-produced yet attempts to depict the allure and persona of an actress. It’s this combination of commerce and entertainment. How do you interpret her attire and pose? Curator: The slightly androgynous clothing combined with that strong stare breaks away from the demure feminine representations popular at the time. What about the crop of the image, and its placement on what essentially functions as a trading card? The Kinney Brothers are clearly trying to capitalize on Maud Waldermere’s image to appeal to new audiences. The way in which they commodify Maud’s "gaze" also invites people into this moment of gazing. Do you think the modern viewer can identify with what it might mean to ‘become’ an icon? Editor: I think I can see that. Thinking about celebrity and advertisements now, maybe it hasn't changed that much, but she feels so present and alive. Thanks so much for that, I never would have made those connections on my own! Curator: It's precisely those tensions – between visibility, performance, and commercial representation – that makes this little card such a fascinating window into the past.