Journal des Luxus und der Moden 1786, Band I, T. 29 1786

Curator: Well, this strikes me as something utterly whimsical, like a fleeting dream of silk and feathers. Editor: Exactly! What you're seeing is an engraving with ink and watercolour called "Journal des Luxus und der Moden 1786, Band I, T. 29," from 1786 by Friedrich Justin Bertuch. It was part of a fashion magazine, capturing the sartorial excesses of the late 18th century. Curator: Oh, "excesses" is right. That hat—I mean, it looks like a whole aviary landed on her head! Does the artist want me to laugh or aspire to such heights of extravagance? I feel confused but intrigued. Editor: Both, perhaps! Bertuch’s work speaks to a culture obsessed with image, status, and the performance of identity. It's Rococo on overdrive. Those feathers, the frills... they're not just adornment, they are signifiers. Think about the social and political tensions bubbling under the surface. Revolution was just around the corner... Curator: Ah, a bit of sartorial rebellion bubbling? I can dig it. To our modern eyes, though, it just looks hilariously top-heavy! But you are so right. It is screaming ‘look at me’. What else can you tell me about Bertuch’s art practice? Editor: The image appeared in a periodical that showcased fashion trends. It was designed to instruct readers about contemporary style, as well as chronicle and encourage consumerism. The coloured pencil shading of the piece highlights the texture and luxurious quality of clothing. Each edition circulated throughout a privileged section of society with unique insight into the zeitgeist. Curator: So it's less of a portrait and more of a 'how-to' guide to high society silliness? The way she grips her cane reminds me a lot of someone taking on an unruly, flamboyant dog lead! It gives me giggles. This image isn’t revolutionary to me – and you’re spot on – more something like…a cautionary fable of finery and excess, wrapped up in a pretty package. Editor: Fables they become when we gaze from a distance. The dress acts a time capsule. We can unpick threads of gender, class and artistry, to comprehend and interrogate 1780s sensibilities. Curator: True! I thought I only saw the surface, but now I feel like the feather boa’s been lifted – much like fashion itself. It hints that this is only one page in a volume filled with social observations, critiques, and aspirations – not that different to how we document society now.