Paris Fashions, Bettina Graziani models Pierre Balmain dress 1951

Gordon Parks made this photograph of Bettina Graziani modeling a Pierre Balmain dress, and it is about more than just fashion. Parks was interested in the way an image could reflect the inner life of his subjects. What strikes me first is the movement. It feels like she is about to take flight, but it’s also staged, managed; she’s playing for the camera. The dress almost looks like it’s painted on the model, it’s so rich in tone and texture. And there’s a funny contrast between the soft, flowing fabric of the dress and the sharp geometry of the hat. The light is everything here, it sculpts the image and gives it a sculptural quality. And that backdrop, that grey backdrop! It's doing so much work, it’s so understated, it’s almost nothing. There’s something so satisfying about the way this photograph comes together. Thinking about other artists who worked in fashion photography, I can’t help but think of Irving Penn; the way he can elevate something as simple as a portrait into art.