Lady in Brown c. 1855

Frederick Spencer painted this portrait with oils on canvas, a very common technique at the time. But what makes this painting interesting is how the material qualities of Spencer's subject are displayed. Her dress, shawl and bonnet are all made of different textiles: printed cotton, delicate lace, and fine wool. Each of these materials was produced through intensive, skilled labor, but they are not presented as such. Rather, they are symbols of her status as a middle-class lady. These textiles also signal the rise of industrial production. By the mid-19th century, improvements in spinning and weaving technologies meant more people could afford fashionable fabrics like these. Spencer's close attention to the details of his sitter's garments thus becomes a window onto the social changes of his time. Ultimately, this portrait challenges our traditional ideas about what constitutes fine art by highlighting the importance of craft and design in shaping our understanding of the world.