Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français, 1779, Z 143 : Paysanne Galante 1779

This print, "Paysanne Galante", was made in 1779 by J.B. Martin using etching and engraving. These are intaglio processes, meaning that the image is incised into a metal plate. Ink is then applied and the excess wiped away, leaving ink only in the etched lines. Finally, the plate is pressed onto paper, transferring the image. The incredible level of detail in the woman's dress gives us a sense of its rich materiality. The ruffles, lace, and floral patterns are all carefully rendered with fine lines. But the image is more than just a record of surface appearance. Consider the labor involved in producing such a garment. The textiles would have been woven, dyed, and embroidered, involving the skilled work of many hands. In a way, this print flattens that whole complex process into a single image. Martin's print acknowledges the value of craft even as it aestheticizes it, presenting labor as a form of spectacle.