Bonnet-coiffure van marineblauwe bloemen van zijde en fluweel, verwerkt met blauwe voile, op een ijzerdraadframe in hoefijzervorm by H. van Dooren & Cie

Bonnet-coiffure van marineblauwe bloemen van zijde en fluweel, verwerkt met blauwe voile, op een ijzerdraadframe in hoefijzervorm c. 1875

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mixed-media, textile

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mixed-media

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textile

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wearable design

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wedding dress

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decorative-art

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Editor: This is a bonnet, or head covering, created around 1875 by H. van Dooren & Cie. It's made of navy blue silk and velvet flowers, along with some voile netting, all on a wire frame. It feels incredibly delicate, but also imposing in its formality. What do you see in this piece? Curator: Beyond the immediate visual of a delicate head piece, I see a concentrated artifact of the complex social and political positioning of women in the late 19th century. Consider the labor involved, the expense of materials— who was this made for, and what statement was she trying to make? Was she perhaps restricted by patriarchal standards but trying to demonstrate wealth, taste, or even quiet rebellion? Editor: That’s a fascinating point about quiet rebellion. How might this object signal a challenge to societal norms, considering it also conforms to certain expectations? Curator: Precisely. The very act of adorning oneself can be a form of agency, even within a restrictive framework. The navy-blue flowers and the delicate netting might indicate a subtle defiance of ostentatious displays of wealth. We must examine how women used fashion to negotiate their identities and exert influence. Editor: It’s interesting to think of fashion as a form of silent dialogue, pushing against boundaries. Curator: Absolutely. The bonnet becomes a lens through which we can explore ideas about gender, class, and power in a specific historical context, inviting us to question the apparent passivity often assigned to women of the time. Editor: I’ll definitely look at historical fashion with new eyes now! Curator: It's crucial to understand garments as powerful communication tools rather than simple decorations, especially when contemplating historical injustices against the expression of identity.

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