Louise Skillman, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

This albumen silver print features Louise Skillman as one of the Actresses series made by Kinney Brothers, around the turn of the century to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes. Note the attributes of her costume: the short skirt, puffy sleeves, and twin daggers; these are all emblems of the pantomime dame. The Dame originates in the medieval period, the 'drag' character in theatrical plays whose cross-dressing was intended to elicit subversive humour. Fast forward through the ages and this motif appears in contemporary TV shows or pantos. Consider the Dame’s costuming—the flamboyant and exaggerated attire. Its flamboyance engages the audience on a subconscious level, a spectacle of cultural memory. The Dame is reborn with each new performance. Each time, she transcends her historical context. Her evolution is not linear but a continuous, cyclical progression through time.