photography, gelatin-silver-print
portrait
photography
historical fashion
gelatin-silver-print
Dimensions: height 84 mm, width 119 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: Here we have a gelatin-silver print from before 1899, titled "Portret van een onbekend meisje," by W. Weiss. It's a very straightforward portrait, but the dress with its pleats and lace looks particularly fragile. What stands out to you in this photograph? Curator: Considering its original context, the image was reproduced as an "Autotypie in Kupfer" by Meisenbach Riffarth & Co., a firm based in Leipzig. What kind of labor and processes are involved in turning an original photographic image into a reproducible print for mass distribution, bound into a Jahrbuch? Editor: So, it’s not just the portrait itself but also thinking about how it became a printed image. The texture does seem different from modern printing techniques. Curator: Exactly! The inscription points to specific craft knowledge of the artisans involved, such as the skills of those manipulating light-sensitive gelatin emulsions, copperplate autotype, and printing press operators. Each step leaves a trace of material practice. How does thinking about these processes change your understanding of the portrait itself? Editor: I suppose it makes me realize the girl and her family may have paid for this photographic session, which then became… almost like stock imagery, democratized and mass-produced to some extent. What was this Jahrbuch, anyway? Curator: Eder’s Jahrbuch was a leading photography publication; the insertion points toward an emerging photo industry finding ways to disseminate images and build a readership beyond wealthy patrons. The print’s existence suggests a commodification of portraiture, distributed via industrial print processes and subscription models. Editor: I didn't even consider all that context hidden in the printing notes. Curator: Seeing art through the lens of its material production opens up entirely new avenues for understanding its role in society and commerce, wouldn’t you agree?
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