Sortilèges ; Robe du soir, de Beer 1922

Curator: My first impression is one of subdued opulence. The piece feels simultaneously delicate and rich. Editor: Precisely. Let's explore George Barbier's "Sortilèges; Robe du soir, de Beer" from 1922. Barbier was a key figure in the Art Deco movement, highly sought after for his illustrations. This artwork, realized in watercolor, encapsulates the era’s fascination with luxury and orientalism. Curator: Watercolor, right, and note how skillfully Barbier has managed to delineate distinct textures, using this humble medium to mimic embroidery, beading, even feathers. What was the making of these clothes? What kind of labor was behind each decorative choice, and who bore the burden? Editor: Those are salient questions to consider, definitely. The woman's identity is obscured somewhat by her stylized depiction; however, this makes the piece a powerful vehicle to comment on the cultural norms of the era—specifically, ideas surrounding feminine beauty, social status, and consumer culture. It serves as a reflection of gender roles. Curator: The phoenix motif also stands out. Its placement behind the figure, echoing her pose, gives it a visual and almost tactile strength through those extended feathers. The application of such detail elevates what might simply be dismissed as a commercial design. The craftsmanship is, dare I say, rather stunning. Editor: The Art Deco movement often gets critiqued for its focus on surface beauty, obscuring the socio-economic inequalities it masked. In "Sortilèges", Barbier invites us to look beyond the glamour, as we consider these inequalities. We have the privilege of critical insight. Curator: Yes, while we appreciate the detail, it’s essential to acknowledge how the pursuit of this idealized vision depended on so much that wasn't so glamorous—namely the labor, both artistic and sartorial. Editor: Absolutely. Examining this work with its artistic choices, materials and production, allows us to critically engage with our understanding of Art Deco. Curator: Such an interesting piece that blends style, substance, and raises questions around process. Editor: Precisely. Thank you.