Studie van een mantel 1628 - 1680

Sir Peter Lely made this study of a mantle with graphite on paper sometime in the 17th century. Lely was the most important portraitist in England during the reign of Charles II, an era that saw dramatic shifts in social structure and the consolidation of the British Empire. This sketch gives us a peek into the artistry behind Lely's portraits of the English elite. During this time, clothing, especially the mantle, was not merely worn but performed status and identity. Here, Lely meticulously renders the folds and drapes, almost as if the fabric itself is a character. It represents opulence, power, and the complex social dynamics of the Restoration court. Consider the absent figure. Who would wear such a mantle? What does it conceal, and what does it reveal? What does it mean to see the trappings of power absent the body that typically inhabits it? This study invites us to consider the silent narratives woven into the garments of the past, and how they continue to shape our understanding of identity today.