Le Follet, 1854, No. 1887 : Chapeau Mme Naudé (...) 1854

Laurent François Guerdet made this fashion plate in 1854, using engraving and hand coloring. These prints were, in effect, early advertisements, intended to promote the latest styles. Look closely, and you can see the labor involved in the depicted textiles. The many tiers of ruffles, lace detailing, and delicate embroidery would have required countless hours of handwork, although the sewing machine was rapidly changing the fashion industry at this time. The dresses’ elaborate construction speaks to the economics of the mid-19th century, when new technologies created both great wealth and great disparities of income. While the wearers of these gowns could enjoy leisurely pursuits, an army of workers were needed to produce and maintain their finery. Even the umbrella bristles with fringe, just one indication of the excess that characterized high fashion at the time. By considering the materials, making, and social context of this print, we can better understand the complex meanings embedded within it, challenging traditional distinctions between fine art and craft.