Louise Allan Collier, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-8) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes 1890 - 1895

Editor: Here we have an albumen print from between 1890 and 1895, part of the Actors and Actresses series by W. Duke, Sons & Co., featuring Louise Allen Collier. There’s a wistful quality to her gaze, and she's surrounded by what looks like feathers. What's your interpretation of this portrait, especially considering its origins as a cigarette card? Curator: The fact that it originated as a cigarette card is paramount. These cards were tools of marketing, deeply embedded in the social and economic structures of the time. The actresses portrayed represented an idealized version of femininity, one that was both accessible and aspirational for consumers. How do you see her gaze in relation to this intended audience? Is it inviting or more distant? Editor: I think it's somewhat distant, maybe even contemplative. Almost like she is gazing into the future. Curator: Exactly. And that's key. Cigarette cards like these helped to normalize the consumption of tobacco, especially among women. By associating actresses with their product, Duke, Sons & Co. tapped into a burgeoning feminist movement while simultaneously profiting from potentially detrimental habits. The "glamour" served to mask a deeper dynamic. It is not merely an innocent portrait but a carefully constructed tool in a much larger, and far more troubling, capitalist enterprise. How might the presence of those feathers, which appear so luxurious, play into that? Editor: They reinforce the idea of aspiration, right? Like buying these cigarettes brings you closer to that lifestyle, even if it’s just an illusion. Curator: Precisely. It reflects the complex relationship between art, commerce, and social expectations, and speaks to a history of companies leveraging celebrity endorsements in a way that both shapes and reflects cultural values, even propagating harmful health practices in exchange for monetary gain. This seemingly innocent image invites critical questioning of the ways media impacts perceptions and promotes consumerism. Editor: Wow, I’ll definitely see cigarette cards differently now. Curator: And that's the first step to engaging critically with all forms of visual media.