Evening dress by Herbert Luey

Evening dress 1912 - 1914

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textile

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fashion design

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underwear fashion design

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art-nouveau

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fashion mockup

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textile

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fashion and textile design

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historical fashion

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wearable design

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costume

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watercolour bleed

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costume design

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clothing design

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bridal fashion

Copyright: Public Domain

Curator: Editor: This evening dress, created between 1912 and 1914, resides here at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Constructed with textile, it evokes such an ethereal and romantic mood. What strikes you when you observe its form? Curator: Well, let's consider the materiality first. Look at the layering, the textures. We see lace, beads, what appears to be velvet, all working together. These aren't simply decorative choices; they reflect a specific moment in textile history, a period of experimentation and mass manufacturing intersecting with the bespoke. The construction of that waist, with that oversized flower detail draws the eye to its cinched waist, symbolic of the gender expectations imposed on the woman that would wear the dress, made all the more striking by the evident artistry. Who do you imagine made this? Editor: A very talented seamstress or atelier, maybe? The detail seems too fine for mass production. Curator: Possibly, but consider the division of labour at the time. Even in high-end ateliers, specific tasks were delegated. One person might specialize in beadwork, another in lacework. Where were these textiles sourced? Were they locally produced or imported from colonies? Each of these questions can reveal how material conditions influenced the dress’s final form. Editor: So, you're saying the dress is not just an object of beauty, but an index of its own creation. How does the Art Nouveau style fit in? Curator: Art Nouveau itself was a reaction to industrialization, but also deeply implicated in it. The floral motifs, the flowing lines... all made possible by new technologies that also displaced many craftspeople. This dress embodies that tension – luxury born from changing modes of production. Editor: I hadn't considered the conflicting role of technology! It seems to reveal much more about a moment than first glance would allow. Curator: Precisely. By considering the materials, labor, and context of its making, this seemingly delicate garment reveals a complex network of social and economic forces.

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